Train to Verona

8th – 9th September 2022

The original plan was to stay a night in Siena then catch a train to Viterbo and continue walking for another week to St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. This last week is 100km and means walkers qualify to receive a Compostela or certificate of completion. I have loved my walk through Italy so much I really want to return and complete the Via Francigena in one continuous walk or cycle next year and receive my Compostela then.

So it’s a change of plans and I have extended my stay another night in this magical city of Siena. I have booked an apartment in a street behind the Piazza del Campo which is the iconic fan shaped central square in Siena.

This is also where everyone gathers to sit in the outdoor restaurants that surround the piazza and face the historic Palazzo Pubblico, the Gothic town hall, and Torre del Mangia, a distinctive, slender 14th-century tower with sweeping views for those that venture the walk to the top.

The weather which has been spectacular with hot days and warm evenings has given way to a few afternoon storms. Fortunately I have usually arrived at my destination by the time the rain arrives and today was lucky enough to walk to my apartment drop of my gear and find a restaurant for late lunch before the heavens opened up.

The locals restaurant workers are amazing they have everything packed up and indoor as the first drops fall and are back in operation again minutes after it stops. The good thing about the rain is it keeps the tourist numbers down a bit. I am down early for dinner and locate a table at a prime restaurant under an umbrella and enjoy a great meal with local red wine and watch an amazing evening gathering in the Piazza of the local Ferrari car club.

I’m looking forward to a rest day in this fabulous city and explore all the criss-crossing streets with historic museums and galleries. The new plan I have come up with is train to Verona for a night and then another train to Venice for a few nights before catching the fast train to Rome for 3 nights.

However, a problem has arisen and why you have to be flexible when on holiday in Italy. A note from TrenItalia, Italy Trains advising a drivers strike and no trains for 48hours from tomorrow. Oops that is so Italian, the country is awash with tourists and there are rolling strikes planned for next few weeks. No problem though I am practicing travel flexibility and changed tomorrow’s train to Verona to 10am today. That means a quick breakfast then back to the apartment to pack my meagre belongings and head to the station for 3-4 hour 1st class train to Porta Nuova station in Verona.  

Its a beautiful day to arrive in another of Italy’s historic cities. Verona is a city in northern Italy’s Veneto region, with a medieval old town built between the meandering Adige River. It’s famous for being the setting of Shakespeare’s “Romeo and Juliet.” A 14th-century residence with a tiny balcony overlooking a courtyard is said be “Juliet’s House.” I will head there tomorrow to have a look as it’s only a few hundred metres from my hotel. The Verona Arena is a huge 1st-century Roman amphitheater, which currently hosts concerts and large-scale opera performances. 

Tonight they are hugely busy with a Pink Floyd concert at the Teatro Romano but no need to get a ticket, I found a restaurant in the Piazza alongside, ordered a wine and we all listened in raptures to an hour or two of this amazing band.

It’s day 2 in the amazing, historic city of Verona, the weather is still hot and expected to be 30deg again this afternoon but signs of imminent rain in the air. I am staying inside the historic centre which a network of mostly pedestrian streets full of restaurants, cafes and shops with apartments living mixed in. Todays plan is to pick up a morning cycle tour of the historic centre taking in all the major attractions. This is a brilliant way to see these ancient cities where traffic is restricted and great to stop often for commentary and photos.

After the cycle tour a stop for lunch at a restaurant I bookmarked and more meandering through the myriad of streets. However, by the time I made my way to the Casa Di Giulietta where the famous balcony is, the place was closed for the day. I wasn’t the only person who had miscalculated and we were all lining up to get a photo of the entrance and view of the house.

What a brilliant couple of days walking around Verona and tomorrow is a mid-morning train to Venice. The weather is looking better for next few days with storm passing through and back to hot temperatures, can’t wait.