7th September 2022
Ok, I did try for an early start but was a late night so was 8am before I was dressed and packed and found a cafe open to have a leisurely wake-me-up coffee in the square. The place is deserted in the morning and the place doesn’t really come alive to mid morning when all the tourists busses arrive. It’s going to be another hot day, 35deg and I have a long walk so it’s a quick walk around the deserted streets to take a few photos then on the road to find the Francigena trail to Siena.
Although today is a small step up in distance it is a relatively easy and fast walk and overall not as undulating as previous days. The trail leaves the town to town walks behind and hikes along the unpaved roads in the Sienese hills to the medieval village of Cerbaia. The trail continues through the woods as far as Chicciola Castle and Villa Castle where I had been advised was a wonderful stop to get breakfast.
There were already a few pilgrims sheltering under umbrellas from the warm morning sun, even at 9.30 was 30deg. A great place for a sandwich and top up water before getting on the road again.
These pilgrim trails like Via Francigena and Camino de Santiago have been around for centuries and are historically the trail for Christians making a pilgrimage to Rome or the Cathedral of St James in Spain. They are also ever evolving these days as local tourist organisations make more off-road pathways and take in more villages. This part of the Via Francigena through Tuscany now has some wonderful rural trails which showcase the spectacular countryside of this part of Italy. However be warned there is a bit of road walking on the narrow windy country roads which as I have said before is both exhilarating and terrifying. It just all adds to the adventure though.
In Tuscany all roads south lead to Siena and it was with much joy I arrived early afternoon to this magical city of narrow cobblestone streets. It’s no different to the other cities I visited and is bustling with hoards of tourists weaving through the narrow streets and linked up in queues to visit the historic building and museums.
It’s a bit of pushing and dodging through crowds as I am heading to the historic centre of Siena, the famous Il Campo, to find a shady restaurant and have lunch with a cold beer. I have chosen well and got in early this year and reserved 2 nights at an apartment close by. Tomorrow is a well earned rest day as the walking and heat can really take its toll.
What a spectacular day walking and after a shower gathered myself for a big explore around the city. The crazy weather has returned with sudden late afternoon thunderstorms drowning the city. Fortunately I found a restaurant with an outdoor seat under an umbrella. It’s the craziest thing even though is torrential rain it is still very warm.
Via Francigena Italy - 2022 